BALENCIAGA PRE-FALL 2024 COLLECTION ; LA, wellness culture, and mockery

With the Hollywood sign in the distance, Balenciaga set the scene for their pre-fall 2024 collection on the cracked concrete of Windsor Boulevard. With the palm trees lined behind the rows of guests, it does not get more ‘LA’ than this. The score (created by BFRND) seems to put you into a spiralling trance as voice overs parodying advertisements were layered over it. With 73 looks strutted out, it became increasingly clear that this show was a reflection of the audience – who clutched the Erewhon collab smoothies in hand. With a good chunk of the collection being athleisure and the leather Erewhon grocery bags, it is clear that the Georgian creative director Demna has been heavily inspired by the east coast export of wellness culture. The wellness industry itself is worth $5.6 trillion, profiting off of human insecurities and mental illnesses. An already thriving sector was definitely boosted by the integration of influencer marketing, who are the faces of this industry. But these faces are much like that of Alex Consani’s on the runway – who had these swollen prosthetic lips on her. There is no end all product, you are destined to keep using these sugar bear hair pills (old school) and posing with your yoga mat. It’s hard to say whether Demna is making a commentary on it or is genuinely just embracing it. His soviet upbringing has made him view Western consumer culture in a different way, with an underlying suspicion but overlying admiration. He once said that he is “interested in what I can deliver to the consumer, what the consumer actually desires”. It seems that this collection does this; exploits this stereotypical LA celebrity culture, but not without exploring it from all angles. Seeing the ozempic zombies photographing full gym fits does bring some humour to the show though (at least personally). What Demna has proved is that mockery is the most sincere form of flattery, as he shows his twisted appreciation for Los Angeles.